Another lurid and seedy collection was on display at Yang Li's Fall/Winter 2018 collection. This is the final installment of his trilogy of collections devoted to classic movies. This season was inspired by the sometimes seedy underworld of gambling and mixed within that theme were leather coats that evoked a subversive vibe while patterns added color and dimensions to the collection.



RUNWAY: Yang Li FW18

Gustav Von Aschenbach is not the name of a real designer, instead it's Robert Geller's new label, one that aims to be more commercial - like a diffusion brand but not called a diffusion brand. For FW18, there were some great oversized coats, pops of color and pattern via layered separates and a bit of branding, which is in line with current trends.



RUNWAY: Gustav Von Aschenbach FW18

Alessandro Michele, whose time at the top of Gucci has yielded extraordinary profits for the label and its owner, Kering, has taken on globalization with his FW18 collection for the Florentine maison. There were multicultural references here with the same elaborate and intricate detailing that Michele is known for. There was also a collaboration with the MLB that showed up with Yankees branded hats and shoes while the logo of San Francisco's team, Giants, was seen on a visor. Michele's jump off point for this season, taken within his surgical operating room set, was the splicing and regeneration of a culture because of globalization. It's a hot topic with many nations seemingly trying to stem immigration after centuries of their own imperialism. Michele sees the melting pot of our cultures as a good thing and the mixing of different cultures and ways of dressing was seen on spliced coats, referencing the multi-faceted parts of our own identity. It's a heavy topic for sure but one that's paramount to Michele's Gucci: individuality but within one's group...or squad.



RUNWAY: Gucci FW18

After the shuttering of Moncler Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge, Moncler needed to revamp their look. So it asked eight designers and labels to create new one-off collections and labeled them under the Genius label. The idea really is quite genius.

Moncler 1952

This collection had a very notable vintage inspiration from the chunky cords to Moncler's old school logo on a knit. There were the requisite puffers, most came with their signature sheen, while others were also reversible. 



RUNWAY: Moncler Genius Project FW18

Stockholm-based label Our Legacy offered a hybrid presentation style for its FW18 collection that highlighted a melancholy collection, rooted in grunge and underground youth movements but elevated with Scandinavian minimalism and a focus on supremely well made and sustainable designs.



RUNWAY: Our Legacy FW18

Texture and tailoring are front and center of Martin Grant's Fall/Winter 2018 collection, which a heavy focus on outerwear, from elegant Chesterfields to more dramatic pieces that utilize non-traditional fabrics.



RUNWAY: Martin Grant FW18

Hecho, which means fact in Spanish, brought a tropical vibe to its FW18 collection via vibrant colors and easy layers of vintage-inspired designs for dandies. The elegant tailoring was reminiscent of the 50s with touches of embroidery that celebrate South and Central American culture.



RUNWAY: Hecho FW18

Burberry's Spring/Summer 2018 collection is quite bittersweet. It was Christopher Bailey's final collection for the iconic British label so it was emotional in that way; he also  re-issued of some his most iconic pieces like that oversized shearling coat and brought back the Burberry plaid which he shied away from for so many years, this time with a new touch: rainbow colors. After 17 years at Burberry, Bailey has grown as a designer and an individual and during that time, he's gotten married to a man, something Bailey when he first started at Burberry would not have thought legally possible. In addition to the rainbow colors on the plaid, rainbows appeared on everything else from puffers to the Burberry name on tracksuits; the collection at times felt very celebratory. There was a lot of nostalgia within the collection and why wouldn't there be since this is Bailey's swansong? That being said, the other part of the bittersweet feeling of this collection highlighted that it truly is time for Bailey to go. Fashion has changed and this collection, while exuberant, felt off and possibly trying too hard to be like a certain Florentine label whose sales have skyrocketed since the appointment of its new creative director and in that aspect, it failed.



RUNWAY: Burberry SS18

Jonathan Anderson, who also heads up Loewe in addition to his namesake label, offered an off-beat take on military-inspired clothes for FW18. For the traditionalist, there were some great coats like the final look's duffle coat or a leather flight jacket while more fashion-y items like trompe-l'œil knits that played on officer uniforms added humor to the collection. It was one of Anderson's most commercial and wearable collections, which is far from a bad thing.



RUNWAY: JW Anderson FW18