CMMN SWDN, founded in Malmo, Sweden's third largest city, cast boyish models to wear oversized clothes, making the collection seem like they weren't quite old enough to wear them. Sleeves went past their hands, coats looked ginormous while a retro vibe ran throughout, as if these models found clothes their fathers wore back when they were at university or just starting out in their careers in their 20s, still quite a few years older than the models themselves, sharpening the aesthetic of the season.



RUNWAY: CMMN SWDN FW18

Only in its third collection, Namachenko's collections are far from a household name but the austere tailoring shown here, with hints of gender fluidity and strong color palette, make a good case why they soon might be.



RUNWAY: Namachenko FW18

Facetasm's FW18 collection was a melange of fabrics, cuts, and textures. Crinkled denim, woolen coats, net face masks, retro baseball uniforms and more all proliferated the runway in this jumble of a collection that somehow worked. It also had an air of reminiscence to it, like an adult referencing back their favorite pieces of clothing as children all worn together.



RUNWAY: Facetasm FW18

Latex, subversion and perversion were buzzwords at Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck's FW18 show. There were coats with cutouts for the mouth, nipples and penis (or vagina), as for some of the hoods and caps, they resembled gimp masks while a sea of shiny latex accentuated the sexual theme with words like "PIG" or "TOP" plastered on clothes. Van Beirendonck's collections are often more than what meets the eye and this outre sexualization of his collection seems to be his reaction to the outre sexualization of society: people "leaking" their own sex tapes to become the next Kim Kardashian or posting thirst trap pics on Instagram or sharing nude photos of themselves with anyone who asks for it. Though the designer makes no judgement on those individuals, it's a pervasive part of our society now and Van Beirendonck is only reflecting back what he sees.



RUNWAY: Walter Van Beirendonck FW18

Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli knows a cash cow when he sees one and so that's why Valentino's now-signature Rockstuds appear on stunningly tailored overcoats and camo makes a cameo in nearly every collection, irrespective of the season. This season, there's the collaborative collection of puffers with Moncler that's sure to drive foot traffic to try on these shiny puffers, especially the ones that are Valentino-red. Though commercial success is important for a maison's survival, so is relevance. There was nary a suit to be seen on the runway and that's purposeful since Piccioli knows that traditional tailored clothing is on the way out. His solution this season? Tailored sweats. Many, though not all, of the pants seen on the runway are oh-so-comfortable sweatpants that one can wear to work because they're neat and tailored but then to the gym or a night out. Lastly, it wouldn't be a fall/winter collection without talking about the coats, which were stunning and offered something for everyone from rockstars (those Rockstuds, natch) to businessmen (austere Chesterfields) to arty men with cash to spare, did you see the intricately embroidered coats, some in a tiger print or in floral? Piccioli has blossomed since taking over the creative position at Valentino as a one-man show.



RUNWAY: Valentino FW18

Y/Project's Glenn Martens recently won the ANDAM Prize, the same prize that put designers like Martin Margiela and Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent on the map. In his first men's collection since the win (it was in July 2017, just after the label's SS18 show), Martens jumps out of the box with a collaboration with UGG, featuring everything from comfy and furry slippers to thigh high boots, which already has the fashion set's tongues wagging. As for the clothing, Martens continues to play with proportion and fit, highlighting paneled denim, double sleeved sweaters and oversized accessories.



RUNWAY: Y/Project FW18

Before Haider Ackermann ever created a men's collection, a special one for Pitti Uomo some years ago, he had already established an aesthetic. It continues and ties together his menswear and womenswear. That aesthetic, if you're new to Haider, is languid and sensual clothing. Fall/Winter collections tend to be strong for the Colombian-born designer since the rich fabrics like velvet pair so well with wintry clothes. For FW18, there were sublime coats, many with intricate and dazzlingly linings while loungey trousers cleanly cuffed added a a military feel while a strong Japanese and East Asian influence came through in the cherry blossom prints seen throughout and some of the tailored jackets.



RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann FW18

Politics and fashion are not mutually exclusive. Fashion is, after all, a form of art and art is often a reaction to the current state of society. With this in mind, GmbH's FW18 collection was a reaction, in part, to the tumultuous political climate from nationalism to nuclear war to human rights issues. GmbH named its FW18 collection "The Modern Dark Ages" and this trope can be seen in chainmail tops and embroidered leather, like one would see in a period piece on soldiers, while the label's signature PVC pants added a modern and lurid thread that pieced together the past and the present, as well as the brand's identity and the outside world.



RUNWAY: GmbH FW18

The English countryside and hunting are the starting point of Palomo Spain's FW18 collection. It's combined with Spanish cultures to create a collection that's both warm - think neutrals and tweeds - and lively, a joie-de-vivre that the label is known for. The label continues its play on proportion and gender roles in this collection, seen in the puffy skirts and dramatic capes.



RUNWAY: Palomo Spain FW18